The Galápagos: Fourteen Enchanting Facts about the Enchanted Isles

The "Islas Encantadas" or "The Enchanted Isles" was an early name given to what we now know as the Galápagos. “Enchanted” because their evocative appearance through the mist gave them a mystical quality and created a challenge for early navigators to locate them. The archipelago straddles the equator about 1,000 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador. Most of the islands are volcanic peaks—the highest being Volcan Wolf on Isabella Island at over 1,700 metres.

Plants and animals have had to travel a long way to populate the islands, either through the air or the salty sea. As a result, the islands are primarily inhabited by birds and reptiles, which dominate the land fauna. Marine mammals like seals and some bats have also made it, but typical land mammals and amphibians are absent due to the challenges of crossing vast ocean distances and the inability of many species to tolerate saltwater.

Giant tortoises are keystone species whose presence and activities are vital for the health and balance of the Galápagos ecosystems. As the primary herbivores, they significantly influence the vegetation by grazing on a wide variety of plants, including grasses, leaves, and cacti. This grazing helps maintain open grasslands and prevents any single plant species from dominating the ecosystem.

But how would such a slow and sedate animal get to this remote location? Apparently, they float well and their slow metabolism keeps them alive without food and water for long periods allowing them to raft on the tropical seas from one place to another.

The name "Galápagos" is derived from the old Spanish word "galápago," which refers to a type of saddle used by the Spaniards. The giant tortoises' shells resembled these saddles, inspiring the name for the islands.

Once animals arrived on the Galápagos, they were geographically isolated from their continental relatives. This isolation allowed them to evolve independently, leading to a high level of endemism—species that are unique to the islands. For instance, approximately 91% of reptile species and 83% of land bird species are endemic. Prime examples include the marine iguana, the Galápagos giant tortoise, and Darwin's finches, each found only on the Galápagos and adapted to their specific environments.

The isolation and endemism of the animals deeply intrigued Charles Darwin during his visit to the Galápagos Islands in 1835. Observing the unique species and their adaptations, such as the diverse beak shapes of finches, inspired Darwin to develop his groundbreaking theory of natural selection. These observations were pivotal in his writing of On the Origin of Species, a seminal work that revolutionized our understanding of the evolution of plants and animals. The Galápagos Islands thus became the cornerstone of Darwin's scientific legacy.

The Galápagos are geologically young islands, formed between one to five million years ago. They are located atop a volcanic hotspot where magma from deep within the Earth's mantle rises and creates new land as it hardens upon reaching the surface. The volcanic terrain, in places, resembles the surface of a giant, burnt casserole.

The Galápagos Islands are influenced by the convergence of three major ocean currents, including the cold Humboldt Current, the warm Panama Current, and the deep Cromwell Current. These currents create a unique climate—dry and cool from June to December, and warmer and wetter from January to May. The mixing and upwelling of these currents bring nutrient-rich waters to the surface, supporting diverse marine life around the islands.

Although there is no evidence of indigenous people on the Galápagos Islands, humanity has been visiting or living there since 1535 when the islands were discovered. The islands became a haven for pirates who used them as a base to attack passing ships from the late 1500s through the 1800s. In the nineteenth century, several penal colonies were established and failed, along with ill-fated attempts at sugar cane plantations. These ventures could not survive the harsh conditions and isolation. During the early twentieth century, the Galápagos attracted eccentric European settlers escaping the wars of the time, adding to the islands' colourful human history.

Whalers, mainly British and American, arrived in the 1700s and stayed until the 1860s when various factors, including the American Civil War and depletion of whale stocks, caused them to move elsewhere.

In 1832, the Galápagos were annexed by Ecuador, resulting in a new wave of settlement. This, along with the actions of earlier pirates and whalers, caused significant harm to native wild species—vast numbers of tortoises were killed for food, and introduced species like rats and goats ravaged native habitats. However, in the 2000s, extensive eradication efforts successfully removed many invasive species, leading to recovery of the island’s unique ecosystems and strengthening future conservation efforts.

Throughout the second half of the twentieth century, Ecuador established robust conservation programs to protect the unique biodiversity of the archipelago. The Charles Darwin Foundation, founded in 1959, helped lead the way. These efforts culminated in the designation of the Galápagos as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, recognizing its exceptional scientific value and garnering international support for its preservation. Today, conservation remains a top priority, with continuous efforts to balance human activity and ecological protection.

Today, over 30,000 residents occupy four of the islands, while approximately 275,000 tourists visit each year as of 2023. The two main communities are Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Tourism is closely regulated to ensure it does not compromise the fragile ecosystems. As well, visitors are educated about the importance of conservation, boosting global awareness and support for the unique biodiversity of the Galápagos.

With tourism being the dominant economic driver, conservation is becoming a point of pride for local residents. Environmental education and citizen science are now integral parts of the educational fabric in the Galápagos. Even traditional practices, such as artisanal fishing, are maintained and adapted to ensure the sustainable use of natural resources. The people of the Galápagos now play a major role in celebrating their home as the keystone in one of the world's most important conservation stories.