Born of Fire, Home of Trolls

“When one’s life is conditioned by a landscape dominated by rocks twisted by volcanic action, wind, and water into ferocious and alarming shapes…the imagination fastens on these natural phenomena.” —B. S. Benedikz, "Basic Themes in Icelandic Folklore"

My imagination became fastened on Iceland’s natural phenomena when first I travelled there in 1986 to attend a geological conference, and then again many years later with Adventure Canada. As a geologist, I am excited by the stories of Iceland’s ongoing creation and the influence on its people. As a traveller, I am overwhelmed by the wondrous shapes and smells of lava and geothermal fields, interspersed with magnificent waterfalls and glaciers. Let me share some of this geologic story of Iceland, in hopes it may inspire you to experience some of it for yourself.

As Charles Dickens once wrote in A Christmas Carol, let’s start with the big picture, which, “… must be distinctly understood or nothing wonderful can come of the story I am going to relate.”

Iceland was born of fire sixteen million years ago, at a place where tectonic plates diverge in the Atlantic Ocean.

Lava creates the Mid-Atlantic Ridge which, for most of its length, is underwater. Iceland continues to grow as molten magma comes to the surface of the ocean floor.

So, you may be wondering, why is Iceland an island? The reason is that there is a hotspot centred under the island that provides an additional source of molten magma, fuelling Iceland's volcanic activity so that it can build itself above sea level.

The island of Heimaey is one example of Iceland’s new volcanic activity. In 1973, over 400 homes were destroyed by a lava flow, and it is a poignant place to visit.

The volcanic action on Iceland creates its many amazing features that so strongly influence Icelandic life and lore. (This is similarly true of the Faroe Islands, which were previously joined to Iceland and Greenland by a land bridge created by the same mantle plume. )

Lava, cooled into geometries of basaltic columns, are an inspiration to Icelandic architecture, including those of faith—perhaps a nod to the spirit of Earth’s underworld sweeping to the heavens?

In the presence of glacial meltwater and rainy seasons, the many layers of lava flows create resistant ledges spawning magnificent waterfalls.

Geothermal fields created from volcanically heated groundwater provide Iceland with all of its power and heating needs. Where the heated water comes to the surface, it creates otherworldly landscapes of vivid colour and acrid air from dissolved sulphur.

In special places such as Dimmuborgir (whose name translates to “dark castles”), a lava lake boiled water in the marshy soil below, creating steam vents. After the lava lake drained, these became pillars and caves in the "ferocious and alarming shapes” referred to by B.S. Benedikz, which have inspired much Icelandic folklore. There are trolls frozen in place and living in the caves. Some of these tales once played an important role in deterring children from venturing into areas where they may become easily lost.

I have loved my times in Iceland and with each visit feel a deeper appreciation for its earthly creations, its people, and its mystical souls born of fire. I invite you to see, smell, and hear it for yourself. The trolls are calling.