The Greenland Revelation

Greenland was a revelation for me. As incredible as the Canadian Arctic is, Greenland is not to be missed. The scale of ice, the intense beauty of the landscape, and the warmth of the people are all stellar. From the moment you see the the coastline in Kangerlussuaq, you know it’s going to be good.

Leaving Kangerlussuaq Fjord I remained on deck until the light dipped below the horizon, tracking the massive volcanic seams of the Kangaamiut dike swarm, one of a handful of such geological structures in the world.

Sadly some the glaciers here have started to ground out due to climate change. The beauty of the ice belies its ecological warning.

Zodiac landings in Greenland are particularly special. The nature of the coastal landscape invites exploration. Its history, its surprising flora, and its wild geology all draw you forward.

Cresting the next ridge reveals an even more incredible view than the last—and sinking in that soft tundra moss is not to be missed. People often ask where Greenland got its name; I suggest it is the subtle palette of the mosses and lichen and its restful effect on your eyes.

Cruising the ice by Zodiac reveals even more detail: incredible translucent blue seams, hidden caves and pools, and endless striations are a frozen feast for the eyes. But it's the sound that gets you. Crisp bubbles rise to the surface and constant melting is heard as the water drips off the ice. If you are lucky, you’ll hear the thunderous crack of one of the bigger bergs as it releases pressure. You feel it instinctively on the water—these icebergs are not benign, they are unpredictable and incredibly powerful.

Being able to weave through said icebergs or land at an ancient encampment at the shallow end of a fjord is part of the wondrous appeal of Arctic cruising. Having access to a fleet of Zodiacs transforms the trip into genuine exploration, accessing communities and shoreline that large ships can’t begin to approach. To access multiple sites in a day, then pull up anchor and steam up the coast to do it all over again the next day—that is what sets ship-based travel apart.

As a Canadian, it was fascinating to see Adventure Canada's Inuit Cultural Educators land on shore and begin to speak Inuktitut with local Greenlanders. It gives you a very different sense of the neighbourhood and the communal links that predate the colonial histories of our two countries.

The communities of Western Greenland are remarkable. The warmth and artistry of the people and the colour of the villages stand in complementary contrast to the environment that they occupy. Greenland's people are as amazing as the landscape they call home.